Today I received an email pleading for a knit version of Splitter. I'm still far too much of a novice knitter to try to render such a thing first hand, but I did write some thoughts on how to go about an attempt. Below is what I sent her. Anyone game to try working it out and sharing their results with us?
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I am a very novice knitter myself, so I'm not really up to the task of converting the pattern just yet. However, maybe I can give you some hints about the general construction of the pieces so you can work it out on your own. Look closely at the "figure" photos on the original crochet pattern page. They will show you what I'm talking about below. The sections of the original pattern that talk about assembly, wire frames, and attaching and finishing things should translate directly, as they don't depend on whether the work is crochet or knitting.
If you look at the pictures, you will see that each of the pieces is really just made up of flat shapes sewn together, along with a few tubes thrown in for handles. If you can knit a sweater (I can't, yet, though I've read up on the theory) you should be able to work out the required shapes here.
The axe is made of two main pieces, the head and the haft. The main shape for the head is a rectangle with a shallow scoop taken out of the bottom edge. I imagine knitting this might be like beginning to work the neckline of a bottom-up sweater, binding off stitches in the center of the row and working up each side of the neck, binding off a few more stitches with each row. Let's see if I can make an ascii axe head:
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If that shows up at all correctly for you, maybe it will give you a rough idea of the shape you're going for. Make two of those in red, and sew the axe "cutting edges" together in light grey, with a nice deep blanket stitch, or some other deep stitch, to make the edges really stand out visually.
The handle is made as a tube with an oval shaped bottom. Probably easiest to make the oval by knitting something like this:
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or something along those lines. Make two ovals, one for the top of the blade (see Figure 1 on the original pattern) and one for the bottom of the haft. The tube for the haft will likely require dpn work, and there's a slight decrease about 4 inches from the end of the haft. Remember to put the decreases in line with the narrow ends of the ovals. (figure 2)
The chainsaw is made up of two pieces, body and blade, and the body is made up of two shapes, a paralellogram and a long band that will wrap around the outside of that paralellogram
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Make two paralellograms and sew the band between them, following the directions in the original pattern. I guess I would just embroider the vent on the side, using a fairly wide embroidery stitch like a daisy chain.
The blade...well, that's a tricky one. You not only need to work the wire frame into the piece, you need the picot edge to make the teeth of the blade. If you can crochet at all, I would knit the flat part of the blade in any way that gets the basic shape for you:
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then crochet the picots and wire around the edge as described in the original pattern.
If crocheting is just completely beyond you, and you can't find a willing accomplice to help with that one small part (maybe 20 minutes work for an intermediate crocheter, I promise!), then I would experiment with the picot hem method found here on EHow:
http://www.ehow.com/video_4976539_advanced-knitting-picot-edges.htmlI'm sure more advanced knitters would work out some pattern using short row shaping to navigate the curved end of the blade, but I have yet to make anything that isn't a simple rectangle.
I would start by making your wire chainsaw frame, insert it into the body without the blade on it, and work the blade to fit it, rather than making the blade then fitting the wire, as in the original. I would use two sets of long circular needles, using each "pair" of needles as a single, so that the cables can hold the length and allow the work to curve around the end of the blade. Mind you, this is just a theory, and I haven't actually tried it. I would start by making the picot edge long enough to go around the wire form (make it a little snug, you want it to stretch flat, not rumple on the frame), then decrease successive rows in the curved end of the blade, keeping the work flat, until you can close the center of the long flat piece by sewing through alternating stitches from each side of the center. What you would end up with is a half of a flat round in the end of the blade with a simple seam running from there down the center of the blade to the slanted end, where the blade joins the body. When you fold over and sew the edge to make the picots, sew around the wire at the same time, to attach the blade to the frame.
I hope this was some help to you, and I'm sorry I don't have something more specific for you to work from. If you do figure out a pattern, please come join us at the AntiCraft page on Facebook, or at the AntiCraft forum (send me email if you apply there, so I can let you in) and share. I'm sure there are other knitters who'd like to know of your success! :)