(click image to enlarge)

Vinnland
updated 7/03/07

The inspiration for these socks came from the Swirls and Ribs stitch pattern (#184) in Vogue Knitting Stitchionary Volume One.

Spring won't come, the need of strife
To struggle to be freed from hard ground
The evening mists that creep and crawl
Will drench in the dew and so drown
I'm the green man
-"Green Man"

by Becca Compton

Suggested Listening

"Green Man" October Rust
by Type O Negative

Difficulty

MoonPrincess RavenDark
Click here for definitions of difficulty levels.

Finished Measurements

Finished Foot Circumference: 8"(8.5", 9", 9.5", 10", 10.5", 11", 11.5", 12")
Finished Leg Circumference: 8"(8", 9", 9", 10", 10", 11", 11", 12")

Download

Vinnland Socks Chart (pdf format)

Materials

• Size 1 Double Pointed Needles (2.25mm)
• Knit Picks Essentials in Pine [75% superwash wool/25% nylon; 50g/231yd per ball; 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4) balls]
• Darning Needle

Gauge

29sts = 4"

Project Notes:

These socks are knit from the toe up using a short row toe and heel. This is a similar method as detailed in Simple Socks Plain and Fancy by Priscilla A. Gibson-Roberts.

Directions

click image to enlarge

Short Row Toe:

Using provisional cast on cast on 28, (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44) sts.

(RS) Turn and knit across row stopping before the last stitch.

(WS) Turn and bring yarn to back of work. Insert needle into stitch purlwise, bring yarn forward over needle and purl the stitch. This will create a yarn over paired with a normal stitch. Purl across the row stopping before the last stitch.

(RS) Turn work and bring yarn to front of work. Insert needle into stitch knitwise, and bring yarn to the back over the needle and knit the first stitch. This creates another yarn over stitch pairing. Knit across the row stopping before the first yarn over pair.

Turn work and continue to create yarn over pairs at each end of the row until 12 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20) sts remain between but not counting the yarn over pairs. If you have pointy toes work another 2 rows (leaving you with two less stitches between the yarn over pairs). You should end on a right side row.

When you have the specified number of stitches between the yarn over pairs knit the next stitch (the normal stitch in the first yarn over pair).

Turn work making a yarn over pair, and purl across the row stopping after the normal stitch in the first yarn over pair. Slip the next two stitches (yarn over stitch and the normal stitch from the next yarn over pair) knitwise, place the stitches back on the left needle one by one, bring the yarn to the front of the work and purl the stitches through the back loop.

Turn work making a yarn over pair, and knit across the row stopping after the normal stitch in the first yarn over pair. Adjust the next two yarn over stitches correcting the stitch mount and then place them back on the left needle. Knit the next three stitches (two yarn over stitches and the normal stitch from the next yarn over pair) together.

Turn work making a yarn over pair, and purl across the row stopping after the normal stitch in the first yarn over pair. Slip the next three stitches (two yarn over stitches and the normal stitch from the next yarn over pair) knitwise, place the stitches back on the left needle one by one, bring the yarn to the front of the work and purl the stitches through the back loop.

Work in this manner creating a yarn over pair at the beginning of each row, and decreasing three stitches at the end of each row until you have worked through all the yarn over pairs. You will end on a right side row, with a yarn over at the beginning of the row.

Remove the waste yarn placing the stitches on your third and fourth needle. Note that the stitch mount for every other stitch will need to be corrected. Work the first stitch tightly, and continue across until the last stitch before joining in the round. Slip the last stitch as if to knit, slip the next yarn over stitch as if to knit, place the two stitches back on the left hand needle, and knit them both together.

Work one round and then begin chart for specific size. Sole of foot is worked plain.
Download: vinnland socks chart

Vinnland Stitch:
30 sts x 16 rows (smallest size)
The following rows are the typed out directions for the Vinnland stitch for the smallest size, provided as an alternative to the chart. Larger sizes are made by adding ribbing on either side of the main stitch.

For size 8.5" work: p1 * p1
For size 9.0" work: k1, p1 * p1, k1
For size 9.5" work: k2, p1 * p1, k2
For size 10" work: p1, k2, p1 * p1, k2, p1
For size 10.5" work: p2, k2, p1 * p1, k2, p2
For size 11" work: k1, p2, k2, p1 * p1, k2, p2, k1
For size 11.5" work: k2, p2, k2, p1 * p1, k2, p2, k2
For size 12" work: p1, k2, p2, k2, p1 * p1, k2, p2, k2, p1

Rnd 1: p1, M1, k2, p2, k1, ssk, p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2tog, k1, p2, k2, M1, p1
Rnd 2: p1, k3, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k3, p1
Rnd 3: p1, k1, M1, k2, p2, k1, ssk, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, k2tog, k1, p2, k2, M1, k1, p1
Rnd 4: p1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1
Rnd 5: p1, k2, M1 purlwise, k2, p2, k1, ssk, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, k2tog, k1, p2, k2, M1 purlwise, k2, p1
Rnd 6: p1, k2, p1, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p1, k2, p1
Rnd 7: p1, k2, p1, M1 purlwise, k2, p2, k1, ssk, p2, k2, p2, k2tog, k1, p2, k2, M1 purlwise, p1, k2, p1
Rnd 8: p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1
Rnd 9: p1, k2, p2, M1, k2, p2, k1, ssk, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, k1, p2, k2, M1, p2, k2, p1
Rnd 10: p1, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p1
Rnd 11: p1, k2, p2, k1, M1, k2, p2, k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1, p2, k2, M1, k1, p2, k2, p1
Rnd 12: p1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k6, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1
Rnd 13: p1, k2, p2, k2, M1 purlwise, k2, p2, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, p2, k2, M1 purlwise, k2, p2, k2, p1
Rnd 14: p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1
Rnd 15: p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, M1 purlwise, k2, p2, ssk, ktog, p2, k2, M1 purlwise, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1
Rnd 16: p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1

Knit until sock measures distance from toe to ankle bone (make a note of this, you will use this to determine the length of the leg portion of the sock).

click image to enlarge

Turn Heel:

Work the heel same as short row toe. Join and work in the round. For sizes 8.5", 9.5", 10.5" 11.5" you will need to knit or purl two stitches together at the beginning and end of the front/back to continue the k2, p2 ribbing of the pattern. Continue stitch pattern on front, and begin stitch pattern on back of sock. Work sock in stitch pattern for about 1.5" + measurement from toe to ankle. End on either Row 8 or 16. Work 6 rounds in k2, p2 ribbing.

Binding Off:

Cut yarn leaving enough yarn to graft stitches. I usually hold the sock in one hand, stretch my arms apart and cut that length. You will need to adjust the round to start with k2. Place the stitches on the first and second needle onto one needle. Now separate the ribbing onto the two unused needles with the knit stitches on the front needle and the purl stitches on the back needle.

Grafting k2, p2 Ribbing:

Step 1: Enter the first knit stitch purlwise, then enter the first purl stitch knitwise.
Step 2: Enter the first knit stitch knitwise, and drop the stitch off the needle. Enter the second knit stitch purlwise.
Step 3: Enter the first purl stitch purlwise, and drop the stitch off the needle. Enter the second purl stitch knitwise.

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have used up most of the stitches on the front/back needles. Then slide the k2, p2 stitches on the next needle onto the two needles you’re currently working on and continue grafting. When you have one stitch left on the back needle graft into the first stitch on the round (already grafted) and bring yarn to back of work.

Finishing:

Weave top end in by going down ribbing. Weave in end at toe.

About

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